KNITTING PATTERN -- Lantana Sweater - P284 (Copy)
KNITTING PATTERN -- Lantana Sweater - P284 (Copy)

NEW!! KNITTING PATTERN --Ledger Stripe Sweater - P285

$8.80

This Drop Shoulder sweater is worked from the top down in a simple stripe pattern (no seaming required) Once you have reached the underarm section, stitches are placed on a stitch holder or scrap piece of yarn. Stitches are then picked up and knitted for each shoulder, and then joined to form the front yoke. The front and back yoke are then joined to form the body, which is worked in the round.

Sleeve stitches are picked up around the sleeve opening and worked in the round, down to the cast off Rib. You can use double pointed needles or the Magic Loop technique. Stitches are then picked up around the neckline and worked in a Rib Pattern.

I strongly suggest working up a swatch to determine which needle size will give you the correct gauge / tension. The stitch gauge needs to be correct to ensure your sweater has the same measurements given for this pattern. The row/round gauge is not as important as lengths can be adjusted by the individual knitter to suit.

This Drop Shoulder sweater is worked from the top down in a simple stripe pattern (no seaming required) Once you have reached the underarm section, stitches are placed on a stitch holder or scrap piece of yarn. Stitches are then picked up and knitted for each shoulder, and then joined to form the front yoke. The front and back yoke are then joined to form the body, which is worked in the round.

Sleeve stitches are picked up around the sleeve opening and worked in the round, down to the cast off Rib. You can use double pointed needles or the Magic Loop technique. Stitches are then picked up around the neckline and worked in a Rib Pattern.

I strongly suggest working up a swatch to determine which needle size will give you the correct gauge / tension. The stitch gauge needs to be correct to ensure your sweater has the same measurements given for this pattern. The row/round gauge is not as important as lengths can be adjusted by the individual knitter to suit.

SKILL LEVEL - Intermediate / Advanced Knitter.

SIZES

[A] -- 6 months
[B] -- 1 year
[C] -- 2 years
[D] -- 4 years
[E] -- 6 years
[F] -- 8 years
[G] -- 10 years
[H] -- 12 years

YARN
Main Colour (MC) – Swish Yarn, 100% Merino Wool 230 m/252 yds per 115 gram skein. Colour CL196
Contrast Colour (CC) – The Australian wool store, Australian superfine merino 8ply 117m / 127yds per 50 gram ball. Colour Winter White.

MAIN COLOUR (MC)

[A] -- 120 grams / 240 metres / 265 yards
[B] -- 140 grams / 280 metres / 305 yards
[C] -- 175 grams / 350 metres / 385 yards
[D] -- 200 grams / 400 metres / 440 yards
[E] -- 245 grams / 490 metres / 535 yards
[F] -- 275 grams / 550 metres / 605 yards
[G] -- 305 grams / 610 metres / 670 yards
[H] -- 340 grams / 680 metres / 745 yards

CONTRAST COLOUR (CC)

[A] -- 40 grams / 94 metres / 102 yards
[B] -- 40 grams / 94 metres / 102 yards
[C] -- 45 grams / 105 metres / 114 yards
[D] -- 60 grams / 140 metres / 152 yards
[E] -- 65 grams / 152 metres / 165 yards
[F] -- 85 grams / 199 metres / 216 yards
[G] -- 90 grams / 211 metres / 229 yards
[H] -- 95 grams / 222 metres / 241 yards

NEEDLES REQUIRED

3.5 mm [US 4] small circulars for Neckband, alternatively you could work the Magic Loop method on your normal circulars.
Set of 3.5 mm (US 4) double pointed needles for Sleeve cuffs, alternatively you could work the Magic Loop method for the Sleeves on circular needles.
3.75 mm (US 5 : UK 9) circular needles, 40 cm (16 in) and 60 cm (24 in) long needles.Set of 3.75 mm (US 5 : UK 9) double pointed needles for Sleeves, alternatively you could work the Magic Loop method on circular needles.

OTHER MATERIALS

Stitch holders, or scrap yarn
Darning needle to sew in ends
Marker

TENSION

Gauge/tension: 22 sts x 30 rows/rounds, worked in st st = 10 cm (4 in).

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My knitting patterns do NOT come with guided tutorials, nor do I provide one on one guidance. When purchasing any of my patterns it is assumed that you are either and Intermediate / Advanced knitter and can follow and read a knitting pattern. My patterns have been test knitted and professionally technical edited and are written out in full, following universally acceptable instructions and knitting abbreviations . All patterns are clearly marked for the Intermediate knitter/ or the Advanced Knitter/ or the Beginner knitter, and to the best our knowledge are as correct as humanly possible.

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